Day 21: The Final Countdown

It’s all drawing to a close. Erin and Heather and I went on another jaunt around the city since we only have one more day to venture around Oxford together. We climbed up St. Michael’s Saxon Tower, the oldest building in Oxford. It was built about 1040. The tower has a great view of the city, so I took several pictures from the top. This view is of the spire of the chapel at Exeter (my college) and the Sheldonian Theatre in the background. I’m going to miss this city! =(

There are endings, finales, and terminuses everywhere. We had our next-to-last lecture this morning. The speaker was American (!!!) She was the only American on the lecture circuit and she is very young to have her doctorate and be a lecturer at the University of Oxford. At first I was put off that I was learning something about British literature from a fellow American, but then I was inspired because if she can do it, maybe I could too… And she sure knew her British female authors!

Today was also my last class with Dr. Cunningham. We finished discussing Jude the Obscure and then ventured into other areas of Victorian writing. I’ll miss having my brain filled so much! This man is an ocean of information (which contains more water than a fountain, so I chose ocean for my metaphor). =) At the conclusion of class, Dr. C handed out glasses to everyone and opened two bottles of wine, and we toasted the end of our time together. I was getting a little misty-eyed over the whole thing (and I hadn’t even had the wine!) =) My professor is in the far right of the picture (almost cut out) sitting in his arm chair, looking very intelligent!

I met with Dr. Byrne, my Jane Austen professor, for my tutorial to discuss the essay I had handed in to her. She was very kind in her assessment of my paper, and also gave me recommendations about how to pursue further degrees at Oxford if I am interested. I am certainly interested, but I don’t know if it is feasible. She said I wouldn’t have trouble getting in, but financing a minimum of three years for my doctoral degree is quite expensive. And what would I do with my very expensive degree? Teaching isn’t quite like being a doctor or a lawyer where the salary eventually offsets the price of the education. =) Even if it is just a dream, I enjoyed hearing her opinions and recommendations about the idea. She has been a great inspiration to me during this programme; she has the knowledge of her subject area AND the passion for it (she truly loves literature!) I feel honoured to have had her as a tutor.

After class, I met Art and Anne Gard (my brother’s in-laws) who are also travelling in the UK right now. They stopped in Oxford on their way to meet some friends elsewhere in England. I showed them around the city, we had tea at the Buttery, we went to a free organ recital at Queen’s College, and then had dinner at an Italian restaurant. It was good to see them, and I enjoyed being “tour guide” again. I really feel like this has become my city!

I know I am dwelling too much on leaving Oxford. I should be excited that I'll be traveling to Stratford-upon-Avon, London, and Ireland over the next week and a half! It is just difficult to think about leaving a place that has had such an impact on my intellectual (and personal and emotional) growth.

Date: 19 July 2007
Location: Oxford
Highlights:
- the view from the Saxon Tower
- visiting with the Gards (especially at the recital - this picture is from inside the chapel at Queen's College where it was held)
- having a tutorial with Dr. Byrne
Thought of the Day: taken from the Book of Common Worship, Church of England: “Cleanse the thoughts of our hearts by the inspiration of your Holy Spirit.” I was reading through the Book of Common Worship while I listened to the organ recital this evening and came across that line. I’ve been thinking about “inspiration” and the fact that it is derived from the phrase “to breathe into” (see Dad – I do listen!) and how I have been using the word to describe my experience here. I really feel like I have had a new-found excitement and love for literature breathed into me over the past few weeks. And I like the line from the liturgy, too: the breathing in of the Holy Spirit into our lives cleanses our hearts. That’s some great imagery right there!

Day 20: A Tribute to Princess Di and Jane Austen

I know that when Princess Diana died, the world went into mourning, but I was a self-absorbed 17-year-old and while I was sad for her family, I was not overly affected by her passing at the time. But today I felt the loss. Today I visited Althorp, the Spencer family estate in Northampton with Holly and her kids Ryan and Sarah. The home is still in use by the family during half the year, but from July to September, it is a museum, a historical location, and a tribute to Princess Diana.

There is something tragic about seeing her wedding dress in a glass case. I have a china doll of Princess Diana in her wedding dress and I always loved how extravagant her train was. But the sight of the dress hanging on a mannequin is just sad. There were videos playing of her life, exhibits of her growing-up years, two huge cases containing her famous wardrobe pieces, and extensive tributes to her charity work across the world.

Why was she such an icon across the world? I think people connect because she was an “everyman’s princess” and she made the royal family accessible. But after seeing the family manor, I realize that she was far more privileged than I had realized – but with that privilege came a confined life and a tragic end. The saddest part of the exhibit was the room with a video of the aftermath of her death – the candlelight vigils, shots of the mountains of flowers in front of the family home. In front of the video screen was a 10-foot-square section filled with rose petals – petals from the flowers people had left. There were thousands of petals – and they still smelled beautiful; the fragrance filled the room. The sight and smell combination was a little much for me and though I’m not normally a crier, I got a bit choked up. It was just so tragic… all of it.

I can’t imagine growing up in a house like the Spencer manor. Seeing manors in which people lived two hundred years ago is one thing, but Diana grew up in this house only 30 years ago or so. The grounds are incredible and the home is so stately. Each room is perfectly appointed in appropriate noble fashion: high ceilings, gilded portraits of long-dead ancestors EVERYWHERE, over ten thousand volumes in the library, two dining room tables over 20 feet long… but there were also little signs of “real life”: a BOSE stereo, Tatler magazines, and clearly recent photos of the Spencer family (Di’s brother’s family) who still inhabit the house on occasion.

In the middle of the lake on the property is an island that holds Di’s grave– inaccessible to the public. The lake is a beautiful setting and the island is overgrown with trees so that only a little bit of the grave is visible from the bank of the lake. I find it ironic but appropriate that she finally has some peace. I am not sure why I was so affected by this exhibit. I know that I’m saddened that my time in Oxford is almost over… perhaps all of these emotions are melding together.

I'm also sad because today was my last Jane Austen class. I really feel like I've come quite a long way in my academic appreciation for Austen - I no longer feel like an "ignorant admirer." Tomorrow I will meet with my professor for my tutorial on the essay I handed in... gulp... a one-on-one session with an Oxford Fellow on an essay I wrote on her specialty... right, then. =) Since today is the anniversary of Jane Austen's death, our class met tonight to celebrate in the little bar beneath the college (I went back to Oxford after the excursion to Althorp). We were celebrating her life, not her death, and my professor hosted the event. It was a lovely close to our time together.

(I am not highlighting the lecture from today because it was on the contoversies of Modern Theatre: defecating on stage – is that really art? Or literature? Or anything close to either? Really??)

Date: 18 July 2007

Location: Oxford, Northampton
Highlights:
- Hanging out with Holly and her kids at Althorp

- Seeing the tribute to Princess Diana

- Talking with my whole family tonight!

- Seeing the lamp post, fawn, and lion (shown below) that supposedly inspired C.S. Lewis (right down the street from my college!)

Phrase of the Day: "I don't want to teach my grandmother to suck an egg". My professor said this today and when I looked surprised (read: shocked), she explained that it means she doesn't want to tell us something we already know. Apparently all grandmothers in Britain know how to suck eggs (that really sounds wrong!).

Day 19: Punting on the Thames

It was a scene straight from Mary Poppins today – minus the dancing penguins, though – and no “Blue Hallooo!” either – or the people laughing on the ceiling – or the chimney sweeps dancing on the roofs. But other than that, it was straight from Mary Poppins. =) I went punting on the Thames River! Erin and Heather and I went down to the river edge, bought a chauffeured ride, and enjoyed our “free bottle of wine included with guided tour.” Our punter was Jacob, a boy who just graduated high school and is now on his “gap year” between high school and college. Many Brits take a gap year to travel around the world, earn money for college, or take time off before they go back to the world of academics. I think I need a gap year. =)

The river was filled with other punting boats, but most of the people had decided to forgo the chauffeur and try the punting themselves. I can say with certainty that it is worth the extra money to hire the chauffeur! Jacob was able not only to steer our boat with dexterity, but also avoid the morons on the water, and even help some of them out without jeopardizing our voyage. That skill was worth the extra couple of pounds it cost!

Though it had rained the half-hour before we got on the boat, the sky cleared and the weather was perfect for a trip down the river. I had a delightful time with the girls as we stretched out in the boat and watched the scenery as we passed by the Botanical Gardens, Magdalene College grounds, and Christ Church meadows.

The enjoyable mid-day experience made up for the rest of the day. I missed my bus this morning (it pulled away just as I ran up), I was almost late to the morning session, I didn’t understand the plenary lecture (I felt so obtuse; I did not comprehend the connections he was making with British Literature in the 1930s), and I had to give a presentation in my High Victorian class on Hardy’s Jude the Obscure. When I finally left the High Victorian class (he had scheduled it for later in the afternoon than normal), I missed the 6 p.m. bus back to Bicester and the next bus didn’t get me back in time to catch the local bus to the neighborhood (which only runs until 7 p.m.), so I had to wait for Jason to pick me up after his softball game (thank goodness it wasn’t a really late game!) or I would have had to walk the several miles home in my cute, but not-great-for-walking, shoes. (breathe in) I have been looking for reasons to look forward to coming back to the States, so perhaps these events were supposed to facilitate those sentiments… but even all of the inconvenience of public transportation is just part of the quirks of England – and I still love it =)

Date: 17 July 2007
Location: Oxford
Highlights:
- punting trip down the Thames
- having my professor say “alright, thank you, thank you” at the conclusion of my presentation rather than something like “no, no you stupid American, that’s not right at all”
- talking with Jason tonight – I actually got him to talk a little more than normal. Usually I am running my mouth constantly and he somehow puts up with me. I think he’ll be happy to have his place quiet and back to normal in two weeks =)
Thought of the Day: If you’re not sure of your punting skills, hire a professional. It’s worth the extra money. This thought can probably be applied to many excursion opportunities in foreign countries: rickshaw racing, camel trips, tours through the jungle, etc.

Day 18: I Saw the Sign

Cultural Lesson: Signs
The British are so amusingly proper. Even their warning signs have a touch of pleasantry to them – and often an explanation. When we were walking around London, Heather and Erin and I saw some funny signs. Here they are for your enjoyment:

Clearly, they care about silly Americans who don’t know from which direction the cars are coming.
Talk to the hand! (unless you’re “authorised”)

Here’s a long explanation of why you should not feed the pigeons (since a simple command won’t suffice). And for the sake of those who didn't read my blog on the Lake District, here is my favourite warning sign of all:

And then we have the difference in British and American sayings. There are lots of discrepancies between phrases. For example, on my first attempt at riding the bus, I was trying to purchase a ticket and the man asked if I wanted one way or return. It took me a bit to process that “return” meant “round trip” and I felt like a moron for that span of seconds. Here are some other sayings:

To Let = For Rent
Take Away = To Go
I feel like my days here are almost done! I’ll still be in the UK for another 2 weeks, but the programme ends on Friday. I’m trying to absorb as much literary genius from my professors as I can this week! Today’s lecture was on Modernist Fiction – and I think I actually understand the genre better now because of it! Previously I thought all readers of modernist novels just enjoyed smoking some form of drug, but now it makes a little more sense. My Austen class had a discussion of Mansfield Park and some basic tropes in Austen’s writing. I am typing this right now instead of working on my paper for that class, but at least I finally have my topic for the essay. Hopefully I won’t procrastinate toooo much. =)

Date: 16 July 2007
Location: Oxford
Highlights:
- picnic lunch with Erin in the Oxford Botanical Gardens (I enjoy spending time there and luckily I have friends who enjoy it as well!)
- discovering something redeeming about Modernist Fiction
Thought of the Day: Mind the Gap (said with a British accent to warn you as you approach the trains in the underground). So polite. =)

Day 17: "The Play's the Thing"

All hail Shakespeare! Yes, folks – it is time for a blog about the Bard. What an incredible experience! I attended a production of Othello at the Globe Theatre in London and it was everything I had imagined! I have found my version of Disneyland! It it my own magical kingdom (and I don't have to wear the annoying mouse ears).

At 10 a.m. Sunday morning the group from Exeter left on the Oxford Tube Bus (a direct line between Oxford and London) and we arrived in London about half past 11. Since we did not have to stay with the group, Erin and Heather and I split off as early as possible. I really despise traveling through cities with large groups of people because most folks are NOT as conscious of others as they should be, they stand around blocking the sidewalks, and far too many of them are directionally-challenged. Thankfully, Erin and Heather were of the same opinion, so we found our way on London’s underground system and got to eat a bite of lunch before we entered the Globe. (this is us being silly with a map of the city. we navigated very well!)

The theatre is not the original building, of course, but it is an incredible replica, complete with the thatched roof (reportedly the only thatched roof allowed in London – fire hazard, you know). The inside of the structure is exactly as I pictured: wooden beams, bench seats, the “yard of the pit” for the “groundlings” to stand in, a huge stage, and the sky overhead. Musicians played on stage as people arrived and then the play began without any introduction or to-do at all. The actors just walked up the stairs through the crowd and began their speeches!

The actors of the Royal Shakespeare Company were superb. The man playing Othello was very imposing on stage and the woman playing Desdemona, though very petite, was quite a presence herself. Both Iago and Othello spit profusely as they enunciated their words, so you KNOW they’re good actors! =) The only bobble in the play was the sudden clouding-over of the sky and the intense rain storm that hit half-way through the third act. The poor people standing throughout the production (called “groundlings” in Shakespeare’s Day) got soaked and kept shrinking back towards the seated section in a futile attempt to avoid the rain. The falling of the rain was so loud that we could hardly hear the actors. They continued as if nothing was happening, but at one point, Othello came to the edge of the covered stage and looked up at the sky with an exasperated sigh and a bewildered shrug. The audience laughed and applauded his break in character. I was lucky enough to have a seat, so I did not get rained on, but since we were in the “cheap seats,” I had an obstructed view for much of the play. A large column prevented my seeing some of the characters when they were towards the front center stage. I could still hear them, though (particularly the spit-laden enunciations of two characters)!

Following the play, Heather and Erin and I walked a LONG way back towards the bus station. We decided to take our time and enjoy the view. The only problem was we were in the business district for much of our walk so there wasn’t that much to see! We saw Tower Bridge and eventually came across Big Ben, but that was about it! We had a lovely pub meal at The Red Lion and chatted with some two men from Maryland who had come to London to see Barbara Streisand (really? coming to London just to see an American performer? But I think they were big fans…I just hope they do more than simply see Babs here! I mean, come on – it’s England!)

My feet were killing me when we finally got back to our bus station (I did not wear the right shoes!) and we had a long journey back to Oxford, but it was worth all the pain because I got to see a production at the Globe!

Day: 15 July 2007- Sunday
Location: London
Highlights:
- A PRODUCTION OF SHAKESPEARE’S OTHELLO AT THE GLOBE THEATRE!
- Trying Beef & Ale Pie at the pub (have you figured out that I LOVE food? I think I mention eating in most of my blogs) =)
- Spending time in London with Heather and Erin
Thought of the Day: “’tis neither here nor there”: I love how much of our normal speech comes from Shakespeare’s plays. The longevity of his work (and wit) is impressive.

Day 16: Tea and a Party (but not a Tea Party)

Let’s talk about tea. Actually, how about I write and you read? =) Tea is one of the delights of living in England. Tea is served in our common room at Exeter College each afternoon. Proper tea is available at any of the little eateries around Oxford. And on Saturday I got to experience “High Tea” at the Macdonald Randolph Hotel in the heart of Oxford. Holly, one of Jason’s co-workers, treated me to High Tea at the hotel (think Ritz Carlton- style).

We had a lovely time sipping our tea and eating our treats as we looked out on the streets of Oxford and the Ashmolean Museum across the way. I loved it! I had Assam tea, a rich amber-coloured black tea, while Holly had the Earl Gray. Since Mom and I went to a tea workshop in Marietta, I am well-schooled in proper tea etiquette. =)

The relaxed atmosphere ended when I got home, though. Jason was hosting a cook-out and preparations needed to be made! I helped get the house in order (those of you who know my avoidance of housework will be happy to note that I actually cleaned!) and helped prepare all the food. There were about 20 people present, a good number for the house. Several little kids were running around and somehow I ended up with all four of them in the backyard and I was the new toy. Holly’s son Ryan wrapped his arms around me when his sister Sarah came up to play with me and shouted, “No! This is MINE!” I didn’t realize I was such a hot commodity. =)

The evening was a success and everyone seemed to have a great time. My favourite parts were the super-sweet fudge that Holly brought (yum!) and chatting with all the folks I had met at previous events (like the 4th of July bash). I enjoyed playing hostess even though it was not my house or my party! Actually, I think it makes it easier when it ISN’T my house or my party because then I can do what needs to be done, but not stress too much over it because… it’s not my responsibility! =)

Date: 14 July 2007
Location: Oxford and Bicester
Highlights:
- High Tea with Holly
- playing with the little ones and getting my “kid fix” – enough to hold me for at least a month! =)
- not having to stress over hosting a party
Phrase of the Day: “Bless his cotton socks” – I overheard a woman say this on the bus. I found it amusing. What if he were wearing wool socks? Why the socks and not a t-shirt? But then, there are LOTS of sayings that are absolutely silly when one thinks about it. If you wish, comment with YOUR favourite saying. =)

Day 15: In Search of Austen

Ah, Jane Austen. I got a whirlwind tour of Hampshire and Winchester today. Following the morning lecture on Marriage and Victorian Fiction (very interesting), we few but proud Jane-ites loaded a bus bound for Hampshire, where Austen did the majority of her writing. We visited her house at Chawton (a cottage home her brother set up for her, their mother, and their sister to live after their father died). It’s a very pretty area with lovely gardens and great exhibits in each room. I got to see her writing table and the “creaking door” she wouldn’t allow to have fixed because she liked advanced notice of people’s entrance so she could hide her manuscripts.

On special display is the only existing manuscript of one of Austen’s novels. Only the last few chapters of Persuasion remain; all the other manuscripts have been lost or destroyed over the years. I liked seeing her notes on her text and how she crossed through sentences and phrases and then re-worded. To see an artist’s process is such a special insight. I was encouraged that she had to re-write, re-phrase, and re-structure, too.

Following the visit to the cottage home, we went down the street to the brother’s estate (one of several) called Chawton House. It’s a grand building with fascinating architectural distinctions. First: the home is not a traditional “E” shape like all the other homes of the time– no one knows why. Maybe they ran out of money? Maybe the builder died? So many conjectures… no one knows for sure. What they DO know is that the house looks a little lopsided. =) But it is still an impressive estate.

The great-great-great relative of Austen’s brother still owns the place and has granted it to be used as a library and center for early English women’s writing. The library is impressive; it is a massive collection of women’s writing – and the books of their male contemporaries – mostly represented in first, or early, editions of the works. We couldn’t take pictures in the library, but believe me when I say the collection of books on the shelves was incredible!

Another point of interest is the “hanging staircase” with no central support – very impressive for the time period. Honestly, as long as the stairs don’t collapse under me, I really don’t notice how they are supported. =)

We drove from Chawton to Winchester and had just a short time to visit Jane Austen’s grave in Winchester Cathedral. Her memorial stone lies in the floor next to several others, but hers is the only one noted on the cathedral’s pamphlet. There is a large window dedicated to her that was put in place after her death.

She was only 41 years old when she died. In the Chawton Cottage, there is a framed letter from Austen’s only sister, Cassandra, to their niece Fanny. I got choked up at the emotion with which Cassandra wrote about Jane’s death and how much she loved her sister. Though we do not know that much about Jane’s life, it is clear she was quite beloved and perhaps that is part of why she is still such a popular author today. A note: there is a movie coming out soon about Jane Austen’s life. My professor and all the curators at the two homes said not to take it too much to heart; the writers were very liberal in their interpretation of her life – but the curators were grateful for the movie’s donation of period costumes and money to their foundations! =)

Date: 13 July 2007
Location: Oxford and Hampshire
Highlights:
- visiting Jane Austen’s home at Chawton
- seeing a real estate (finally! I’ve been in England for 2 weeks and had not seen a large manor yet!)
- touching an old book that was one of Jane’s favourites and knowing that she, 200 years ago, would have held the same novel!
- a picnic lunch in Jane Austen’s garden with my friend Erin
Thought of the Day (taken from Pride and Prejudice): “When I have a house of my own, I shall be miserable if I have not an excellent library.”